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Hacker Family Holiday DiaryDay 1 - Fly to BVIs
Day 1
We spent three days flying here today - up at 4 AM - to the airport by 5 AM - and an interminable wait for airplanes all day long. We visited such exotic ports as Pittsburgh on our way. But we are here! And we are aboard 'Virgin Lady'. And she is beautiful. 'Virgin Lady' is a brand new 56' Horizon cruiser with all the toys - including a separate CD system in each of the 4 sleeping cabins. Boy, is it loud on board this boat!
We have two sick crew members (Kate and Jason both have colds) and several tired crew members. But everyone is looking forward to our first day of sun tomorrow. We'll shop and do our cruise briefing in the morning and hopefully cast off for Norman Island (the island that reportedly is the scene for the Robert Louis Stevenson novel 'Treasure Island'). We'll stop en route to snorkel and then on arrival we'll snorkel in the Caves at Norman Island. All is well! Our only anxiety is that our computer guy forgot to bring a power cord so we're running on limited battery reserve. Stay tuned. If we get power, you'll hear more from us.
Day 2Norman Island, BVI. Wednesday, March 8, 2000. Dear Friends,
We arose early to prepare for our departure. The girls went to Road Town to the local (read 'native') grocery store to provision. They spent close to $300 US for two days' provisions (that's more than $1000 Canadian). Feeding a family of eight who eat non-stop from sunrise to bedtime is a challenge! While Krystal doesn't eat a lot, Kate makes up for that. We're hoping Kate meets the weight restriction for our flight home. While the girls shopped, the boys got briefed on the boat and its systems. Boy, does a 56' boat have a lot of systems. Fortunately, Fred had some knowledge of how big boats work because Markus and Jason were no help at all. The entire crew breathed a sigh of relief when Fred tricked the briefing guy into not requiring him to take a boating competency test. We left the dock at about noon and didn't hit anything on our way out of the harbour.
We then proceeded to Norman Island and anchored in 'The Bight'. We went by dinghy to the 'Caves' where we did some more snorkeling. A highlight occurred when some departing snorkelers thought it would be funny to feed the fish as we swam by. Without overstating the response of fish to food, suffice it to say that the guidebooks warn against feeding fish while swimmers are in the water because it causes the fish to become 'aggressive'. Kate said that 'aggressive' was too mild a word as the fish tried to lunch on her toes and fingers. Sit down before you read the next sentence. Kate and Krystal cooked our first dinner (fajitas) and they were great. Amazing what a vacation does for kids. We played euchre after dinner and Kate and Markus cleaned up. There is a suspicion that they have perfected card tricks (some call it cheating). Grandparents should stop reading here! Fred and the kids went to a beach bar at Norman Island and the little girls (whose age will not be written here to avoid criminal charges) had a pina colada. They said they had found a taxi diver who told them that there was no minimum drinking age in the BVIs. Amazing the answers you get if you ask enough people. The kids (anyone under the age of 50) danced, took over the bar and generally 'fit right in'. The kids then stayed up into the next morning played 'Taboo' while the old people went to bed. Stay tuned! Day 3Jost Van Dyke, BVI Dear family, friends, neighbours and eavesdroppers, Day 3 started with an early rising, check of mechanical systems and breakfast. And then we were off.
So we were off for the 'boater's dream island' in the Virgin Islands, Jost van Dyke (pronounced yost van dyk). We experienced some 'heavy water' and things on board started seeking out new places to rest. And some of our crew started seeking out new places to die (but only the seasick). Krystal, Kate, Kristen & Markus swam to shore (a long way). Kris was swimming along and decided to explore one of the larger fish. Until she determined its species. It was a barracuda. Kris retreated so quickly she almost drowned Krystal swimming over her and almost deafened all the boaters in the harbour. The other sensible crewmembers took the dinghy to shore. Speaking of dinghies, at this point we were beginning to think that Jason, our dinghy meister knew what he was doing. More on that later! We walked on the beach of a beautiful and primitive harbour and met an 18-month-old native girl, Shaniqua, who wanted to come home with us. And we almost took her. Was she attracted to our smiling white faces or the oatmeal cookies we keep feeding her? The main activity was watching charter boaters try to anchor. There were too many boats in too small a harbour and too many inexperienced boaters. So several spent their afternoon drifting around trying to anchor the boat. One even pulled up our anchor chain as he tried to relocate. We can be smug because we stumbled into a good anchor setting the first try. Dinner was jerk chicken courtesy of Kim & Jason and it was great. Barb is suffering from kitchen withdrawal and had to make a salad. Then more cards. And Kate & Markus won again. Do you see a trend beginning?
At Foxy's, a local gentleman invited Krystal and / or Kristen to dance. They took much more interest in their own crew after that episode. We wrote our names on the wall (picture enclosed) so we'll live on forever at Foxy's. After late night pizza, we turned in (again after midnight). There just isn't enough time to do everything. The Crew of Good Ship 'Virgin Lady'. Day 4Road Harbour, BVI. Friday, March 10, 2000 Greetings from shore, The gruesome eightsome has come to shore. After more than two full days at sea, we had used up 350 gallons of fresh water. We have now had the conserve water sermon from the captain and her husband the helmsman. We had to come in for water. But our real problem was more serious. We had run out of Diet Cola. Barb was in serious withdrawal. We had to change our itinerary for the entire week and make for shore.
We then headed for Road Town, the capital of Tortola. Some highlights from Tortola: We had been told that our slip at the marina would be ready for us at 12 noon. We drifted around for 2 ½ hours until we had a place to tie up. We actually sent the ladies to shore by dinghy to shop (it took five able bodied women to carry the Diet Cola supplies). The washrooms were unchanged from 1979 when Barb and Fred first visited
Village Cay Marina on their first visit to the British Virgin Islands.
In fact they had not been cleaned since 1979. There was an interesting
brown fungus creeping up the side of the toilet bowl from the water level
(we think it was water). Jayand Kim walked through town at rush hour (really!). There were people everywhere, cars honking their horns, chickens running wild, music (Bob Marley) blaring from every store and the smell of cooking food wafting up the street. Then they returned to the marina where everything was quiet, staid, uneventful and white.
Day 5Marina Cay, BVI. Saturday, March 11, 2000 This was a day of weather – all sorts of weather. The day started with the kids waking up the adults – really! After Barb and Fred had awakened the kids for the first several mornings, the tables were turned when the kids were up early and anxious to get out of harbour. We had guessed that the kids would prefer to be in harbour. Wrong again! After visiting the marina office to send our e-mails, doing some shopping and making more phone calls, we were off. Did we tell you about the phone calls? Yesterday in Road Town Kim, Jay, Kate and Krystal used the phone to call 85 of their best friends. If you didn’t get a call, you don’t count. Now to the weather. It rained early. Then it cleared enough to seduce us to leave harbour. Then the wind came up … and up … and up! We bucked and rocked into the wind and waves! For a 56’ boat to take spray over the fly bridge requires some weather. And we got it! Cloud, mist, rain and more wind! Most people would take cover in such weather. But Kate and Krystal were on the front deck in their bikinis waiting for the first flash of sunlight. They got drenched. We arrived at Marina Cay, one of the most beautiful anchorages in the Virgin Islands. It didn’t take long until the weather began to break and the sun shone through and we had a magnificent day. We had a dive on the reef at Marina Cay and saw a sea cucumber, a sea ray (named 'Rod'), conches, trumpet fish, parrot fish, star fish, sea urchins.
In late afternoon the boys (Markus, Jason and Fred) went by dinghy to Lee Bay on Great Camanoe Island where they had the dive of the trip. The whole south shore of the bay was an amazing underwater kingdom of fish, coral, turtles and rock. We saw a shark, two sea turtles, millions of minnows (so thick we could not see through the schools) and the most amazing varieties and colours of fish. Jason said it was like a postgraduate course for him. We went to the island at Marina Cay and shopped at Pusser’s Company Store. Fred made a major purchase. After wearing a white cap he purchased at Virga Gorda for the past 18 years, Fred ventured to purchase another white cap. And after having two hats blow overboard (both were rescued including one Markus rescued today by diving overboard after it) the crew also encouraged Fred to get a cap clip to tie his cap to his shirt. The same principal as mitts on a string. We also toured the island (it is about ¼ of an acre). Jay found lizards, coral, crabs, huge caterpillars and flora and fauna of every description. The rest of us could have walked through the same areas and seen little of the natural world that Jay discovered. Krystal and Kate cooked dinner (chicken Caesar salad) and we spent the evening lounging in the saloon (that’s the living room on a boat for those of you who feared we were back in a bar). Except Jay. He has retired to bed suffering from sun, sinus infection and an overdose of nature. We’re going back to the parlor games. More to come! Day 6Leverick Bay, North Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVI. March 12, 2000. Good news! We're all still talking! We awoke at Marina Cay with the wind blowing 'stiff' and the sun shining brightly. A beautiful day! After breakfast we were off for our day's destination, Gorda Sound. The wind was blowing right on our nose the whole way but it was a bright and gorgeous day as we headed east along the shore of the 'fat virgin', Virgin Gorda, so named by Christopher Columbus because the profile of the island reminded him of a reclining plump lady.
Upon our arrival at Leverick Bay we went ashore for lunch at a restaurant, our first meal ashore of the trip. Five of us had half pound cheeseburgers in a setting reminiscent of Jimmy Buffett's classic song 'Cheeseburger in Paradise'. We then went shopping. Out of Diet Cola again. A classic episode occurred at the small grocery store at the Leverick Bay Resort named 'Buck's Grocery'. It had closed for lunch. There was a sign posted saying 'Out to lunch. Back at 2'. By 1:50 the crowd of American tourists had begun to gather. At 2 they surged to the door. They huffed and puffed and the store did not open. By 2:10 they were panicking. At 2:15 one of the elderly 'ugly American' gentlemen announced that if the door didn't open soon he'd break it down. Now these are people on vacation with nothing to do but sit in the sun and rest at a small resort. But they were on the verge of a violent outbreak when the portly black lady (who had been in the store all along) ambled to the door and opened it. For more on this theme read Herman Wouk's 'Don't Stop the Carnival'. One of the highlights of the vacation occurred while we shopped. Barb discovered Diet Pepsi (she had been drinking the other brand out of necessity). Some of us spent the middle part of the afternoon on the beach at the resort. Some of the more acrobatic members of the crew performed in a fresh water pool. Then six of us were off for a dive across the channel on Mosquito Island (no ma'am, no bugs!). More fascinating underwater discoveries including barracuda, conches, sea cucumbers, anemone, butterfly fish, lobster, sting ray, crab and an array of brightly coloured fish.. That was followed by showers ashore. We're doing much better with our water conservation. Kate and Markus have asked me to add that they have now played 65 games of euchre (their modest estimate) against various and sundry opponents and are still undefeated. Kim and Jason cooked dinner tonight. We had barbecued scallop shish kebobs. Day 7The whole island of Virgin Gorda We spent today ashore. We rented a car from Speedy Car Rentals and toured the island.
For those of you who have never driven in the Caribbean, our adventure requires some background. The vehicles have steering wheels on the left side and you also DRIVE on the left side of the road. No road is ever flat or straight and certainly never simultaneously flat AND straight. All the local drivers took their driver education at the Kamikaze Drivers’ College. When riding in the back of a safari, hills that are 45 degrees up or down (and all roads here are 45 degrees either up or down) seem very steep. Apparently sudden braking or acceleration is also an experience for the passengers in the back of a safari. Sudden braking is inevitable because of the wild life (we encountered cows, goats, lambs, chickens and one bull with a commanding presence), the wild drivers, the narrow roads and the ambling pedestrians. To cross the north part of Virgin Gorda we had to climb 1000 feet straight up. Once there we climbed up a trail to the highest point on the island and climbed a look out tower. Then it was down to sea level on the other side. We visited 'Little Dix', an exclusive Rockefeller resort. Kristen and Markus acknowledged that it would be fine if we all sent them there for their 5th wedding anniversary. The rest of us pretended that we heard '50th wedding anniversary'. Then we went to Speedy’s to 'sign and pay and stuff'. There was a very simple form to fill in. I asked about a licence. In the past we have had to get a driver’s licence. But since I had already driven part of the morning without a licence, the lady said not to worry about a licence. I paid with cash. No security. No deposit. Limited information. Have a good day! We went to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour. Some of us thought we spent a little too much time shopping there. We had lunch at an old favourite, 'The Turtle and the Bath'. We sent our e-mails (Days 4-6) from an Internet shop in a chandlery shop on the dock at the Yacht Harbour.
We had to hurry back to the boat. We had not shopped for almost four hours and Barb was in withdrawal. Then it was a race to the card table while dinner was prepared. Tomorrow should be another special day. We’re heading for Salt Island to dive on the 'Wreck of the Rhone' and then off to Cooper Island to moor at Manchineel Bay, the site of the Hacker Gignac Rice Caribbean Head Office. We may come home on Wednesday. But then again… Day 8Cane Garden Bay, BVI. March 14, 2000.
Before we carry on with today’s events, an update on last night’s
sports news:
We then had a long run to Cane Garden Bay, one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (Jimmy Buffett even says so!). We anchored in a corner of the bay. The six youngest members of the crew went to shore for an hour (and stayed much longer). There is a suspicion that the eldest of the 6 'kids' led them astray but no one would ‘fess up. Barb had a swim and discovered one of the best snorkeling sites of the trip (and she was alone at the time). Barb cooked a marvelous pork tenderloin dinner. Apparently we have to go home tomorrow, although we are exploring the
options! We’ll be arriving at Terminal 3, Toronto International Airport
just before midnight on Wednesday evening. We know you’ll all be
there with big signs and a brass band. Thanks for sharing our 'Lovely Cruise' with us. |
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Boating
Holidays Ltd
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Hello
from Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI. 
We
have a great crew. Kris & Markus cooked a spaghetti dinner for our
first meal aboard. We shopped on our way here and we'll eat well if our
first 'light shop' is any indication. 
The
good ship 'Virgin Lady' left harbour late this morning after provisioning,
briefing and paperwork. 
We
went to a popular diving spot known as the 'Indians' for our first dive.
Krystal and Kate made Jason go in the water first. They figured that if
the marine biologist didn't get eaten by sharks (Krystal's fear) or crabs
(Kate's fear) they could venture in. The marine biologist (Jason) said
that it was 'beautiful, fabulous, awesome'. He was delighted to see the
real thing that he has been studying all his life. Kim said it was like
being in a Discovery Channel documentary. Markus said the first dive was
'neat'. Kate said that burping in a snorkel is fun. Everybody gets their
kicks in their on way. 
We
stopped in Soper's Hole (West End) but decided to not go ashore. Although
we had not shopped for food for 24 hours we decided to persevere. 
Then
we went to shore to an almost world famous restaurant / bar named Foxy's'.
Every boat in the harbour (and there were more than 100) showed up at
Foxy's. Do you remember the earlier reference to the dinghy meister? Well,
we decided to make two trips to shore since eight of us in a 12-foot dinghy
defy the laws of physics. Jason got the first group to shore and then
set out to return to the boat to pick up the rest of the crew. Unfortunately,
he had forgotten to plot the return trip in complete darkness. He passed
within ten feet of out boat and we called out to him. But nothing can
be hard over the sound of an outboard. So Jason eventually found himself
setting out to sea in a 12-foot dinghy with a 9.9 horsepower engine. He
did work his way back to us and has been much more inclined to preparation
in his dinghy pursuits. 
We
went to Nanny Cay to get water. Of course, there is a story here too.
You see, the Charter Company has an employee named Damien. He is, apparently,
attractive to the opposite sex. The girls (and I mean all the girls) swooned
over Damien while we took on water. Kate says he is a babe. And with an
English accent to boot. But he showed his true colours. Who do you think
he invited for a drink at happy hour? Markus, of course. 
We
went to 'Pussers' (British Navy Rum) and sampled the wares.
There is no confusing the alcohol in the mixed drinks. Dark (and strong)
rum. It is interesting how everyone under 50 is beginning to identify
the days of the trip by bars. Wednesday was 'Billy Bones', Thursday
was 'Foxies' and Friday was 'Pussers'. 
But
the real excitement was right under our boat. As Kim and Kristen were
sunbathing on the back deck, they spotted a fin in the water. 'Shark'
came the screams. And they were almost right. Our marine biologist, Jason
(he really is doing his Ph.D. in marine biology) identified the fish as
a ramora, a shark 'sucker'who attaches to a shark and feeds on the scraps
when a shark feeds. 
We
have a variety of reactions to bright sunlight. Jay, the scientist, is
experimenting with how many layers of skin one can burn before reaching
bone. Kate is trying to come as 'close to the line' of a burn
as possible. She now regularly announces the number of remaining prime
sun tanning hours. Kim complains that she has the best tan of her life
(but it is no better than the tanning salon tan she brought with her).
Barb is managing the sun well but has occasionally actually revealed a
forehead (the first time anyone has seen it for decades). Krystal has
brought out at least 17 different bathing suits to ensure that there are
no 'lines' in her tan. Markus is more interested in taking pictures
of burned bodies than tanning (but in the process is getting a great tan).
Kristen is 'just getting a nice tan' in her own modest words.
She wanted to have a shower today so she could admire her bare bod tan
lines. Fred has been told to stay out of the sun so he has to sneak out
and pretend he really isn't getting any sun. 
First
the car rental experience. Late yesterday we went ashore to the Speedy
Car kiosk. It was closed. It appeared to have been closed for some time.
But Speedy advertises that they have a car rental operation in Leverick
Bay (where we were). We spoke to a shifty looking man standing beside
the Speedy kiosk. He turned out to be a competitor, 'L', of 'L & S
Car Rentals'. Could he help us? But of course! But alas 'all' of his vehicles
that would accommodate eight passengers were already reserved for today.
We called Speedy in another town. They said they would have a 'safari'
for us at Leverick Bay at 9:30 AM. All they asked for was a surname. No
licence, no address, no security. We went ashore at 9:15 AM. And guess
what? There it was. A blue Ford Ranger pick up truck with a canopy covering
two bench seats (running front to back) awaited us. A young man handed
me the keys. He did not ask my name. He asked me to go to the Speedy office
in Spanish Town and 'sign and pay and stuff'. And we were off! 
We
finished our tour at Savannah Bay, Fred’s favourite beach in the
world. 
Our
last full day at sea began with a quick run from our mooring at Leverick
Bay to shore to take on water. We’ve still only used 1/8th of our
fuel but are on our third tank of water. No comment necessary! 
The
highlight of today was the dive on the wreck of the RMS 'Rhone', a 310-foot
long Royal Mail Steam Packet Company ship able to carry more than 300
passengers and more than 100 crew. Although not of the proportions of
'The Titanic', the 'Rhone' was one of the finest ships of her time. She
was lost in the most violent hurricane in the history of the Virgin Islands
on October 27th, 1867 (Barb’s birthday although Barb was too young
to remember the incident). The wreck lies in 30 to 80 feet of water but
is quite visible for snorkelers from the surface. Much of the ship can
be identified: masts, hull ribs, planking, portholes, the propeller, the
rudder, parts of the superstructure, a boiler and various other parts.
We had a great time snorkeling over the wreck. 
